Projects

Laments of the Khanga (KILIO CHA KHANGA)

This is a musical about an enchanting piece of cloth called “Khanga” also known as “kanga”. The khanga has deep cultural, historical and economical significance throughout East Africa, especially the coastline of the Indian Ocean.

Of late the khanga feels it has lost some of its popularity due to the arrival of used clothing (mitumba) and the imported “dera” from the east. In this musical the khanga is brought back to its glory by showcasing its traditional uses alongside the khanga’s and the its place in modern fashion.

It is a talking cloth that for more than 100 years has united cultures and communities, young and old, rich and poor, men and women, locals and foreigners.

This common thread comes in colorful, dynamic designs and also comes with “sayings” which are meant to teach, scold, encourage, motivate, Praise the Lord and sometimes plain tease.

In the middle of the 19th century, it is said the fashion-minded women in the islands of Zanzibar began sewing together a string of printed kerchiefs to form a new design the called “lesso”. The lesso caught on quickly and soon entrepreneur shopkeepers ordered loud designs from factories that became the modern day khanga.

Khangas worn for all occasions are known to be a woman’s best friend.  Its soft fabric (100% cotton) befriends the skin and its flexibility gives a myriad of uses which not only enhances a woman’s beauty but also is a medium of communication. There is hardly an occasion where khanga is out of place.  Its multiple uses determined by the function at hand, the khanga is worn at home as apron to do chores, they wear it to visit friends and to funerals. They are used to carry babies on the back but also as receiving blankets for new born babies.  The khanga’s many uses also include using it as a uniform for special occasions, lingerie, costume, bag, scarf, shawl, towel, corset, bedspread, tablecloth, cushion cover and to mark special/ historical milestones.

The Message

Every khanga comes with a Kiswahili “msemo” (saying/idiom) ascribed close to the border so that when a woman wraps it around her waist, her message is plain for all to see. Sometimes the purchase of a print is due to the message and purpose of the buyer rather than the beauty of the design or color. Each saying is laden with layers of meaning indecipherable to the outsiders.

It could be :

  • The Wetness of Sugar Cane is in the Tip – (Saucy)
  • The bee guards its honey – (More often to make Rivals in love uncomfortable)
  • Love your Neighbor – (Encouraging)
  • May God be with you – (wishing a friend well)

A husband admonishes his wayward wife with a new pair of khanga with the appropriate message.

A Love Affair/Collection

A Swahili woman can never have enough khangas. It is not unusual for a woman to own hundreds of pairs neatly folded, scented and stacked away. The very affordable khanga is a token of esteem, given as gift from husband to wife, mother to daughter, daughter to mother, guest to host, host to guest and so forth.  It is a treasured item in many families and can be passed on from generation to generation. So true is the sentimental value of the khanga and so enchanting is this cloth that it is glorified in the saying : Khanga Struts in Style …… Wear it with a Smile

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